As teenagers, we wore lipstick and a coat or two of mascara in hopes of looking older. Now, the tides have turned and most of us rely on makeup to help us look younger.
But unless you really know what you’re doing, your makeup may actually be aging you. “Using incorrect colors, formulas and makeup techniques can make you look up to ten years older than your actual age,” says celebrity makeup artist Kimara Ahnert, owner of the Kimara Ahnert Studio in New York City. Thankfully, the reverse is also true: By simply correcting makeup missteps you can shave up to five years off your look. We asked Ahnert for the lowdown on concealing and detracting from the most common signs of aging.
Crow’s Feet: When working to hide fine lines around the eyes, first find a concealer that perfectly matches your skin tone. If you’re unsure about which shade to choose, visit a makeup counter at the department store for an expert’s assistance.
You also want to look for a concealer with a light and creamy consistency; a heavy, pancake-y textured product will settle into lines and wrinkles and draw the eye right to them. Apply the concealer to crow’s feet using your ring finger to blend it up and out with a tapping motion. Don’t rub it in, as this can easily damage the thin, sensitive skin in this area, which promotes more wrinkles.
For the same reason, you should also avoid waterproof mascaras, which require a lot of rubbing to remove them. Another no-no: Applying powder too close to the eye area: It tends to settle into lines and make them much more apparent.
Crepey, Loose Lids: First, apply an eyeshadow primer to help fill in lines, smooth the surface of the lids and allow your eyeshadow to better adhere. “Next, I would take a light colored—not white, but light pink or bone—matte eyeshadow and apply it all over the lid to the brow bone,” suggests Ahnert. Top this off with a shadow shade of your choosing, just make sure it’s not too dark or too shimmery; Ahnert says that dark colors and pearlized shadows can be aging.
Wrinkles Around the Mouth: Start by filling in lines around and on the lips with a lip primer. Then apply a moisturizing lipstick, as a dry pout is sure to show every wrinkle. Ahnert suggests avoiding heavy lip liners, especially in dark colors or shades that contrast with the color of your lipstick.
And what about those pesky lines in the corners of your lips? “I honestly don’t mind smile lines. I think they are signs of a happy life,” says Ahnert. A beautiful philosophy, but if you don’t share it you can conceal smile lines by applying a stick or pencil foundation directly to them and blending with a cosmetics sponge.
Hallowing in the Cheeks: As women age, we tend to lose the plumpness in our cheeks. Instead of injecting your face with fillers, try diverting attention from hallowing by highlighting your cheeks with a light diffusing shimmer powder. You can also apply a pop of pink blush to the tops of your cheeks. “The apple of your cheek is the fullest part of the face, so applying a noticeable bit of color here will automatically draw the eye to this area,” explains Ahnert. Whatever you do, resist the urge to go contour crazy, as applying makeup in this manner makes your cheekbones look more pronounced and sharp.
A Sagging Jawline: Ahnert suggests using bronzer to help create a shadow that conceals sagging skin along the jaw. Start at the center of the chin and sweep a matte bronzer (not one that’s pearlized or shimmery) outward and directly below the jawline on both sides of the face. Blend in with your bronzer brush and voila—instant facelift!
By correcting these all-too-common mistakes, you can easily recall your youth. Try a few tips today and let us know how they work!
Megan O'Neill is a freelance writer living in Philadelphia, PA. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Health, Self, Glamour, Real Simple, Natural Health and Spa.
